Got a cannas print of @jamespviola’s shot from LB a few weeks back on one of the best days I’ve ever seen. #newyorksurf #newyork #wintersurf #lbny
He turned philosophical, saying, ‘In 12 hours, we go out and experience nearly every emotion in the human range: physical strain, frustration, pain, anxiety, fear, calculation, the joy of making it to the top, the beauty of your surroundings, camaraderie, then the 60 seconds of adrenaline-filled activity.’